Reflex Sight – How To Use It
Reflex sights are defined as an optical device which emits a reticule image or set of images like a circle onto a target to allow an individual the ability to clearly see where on the target object your device is pointing. Reflex sights should not be confused with laser sights, which actually projects a point of light straight onto a target. Reflex sights are used by both individuals in most law enforcement teams as well as everyday citizens in order to quickly acquire their targets. In the military, reflex sights are normally used as a non-magnifying sights on a variety of guns. Other persons use reflex sights for playing in games like paintball, air soft and IPSC.
A reflex sight can be mounted at any distance from the eye without enlarging the picture of the target object and at almost any angle, without allowing the image to become distorted or reticle, and without causing the reticle to move relative to the target. Depending on how the reflex sight is produced, the distance of the target, and the magnitude of angle at which it is viewed from can disrupt the judgment of the person’s aim, even though this rarely occur. If the shooter does not enlarge the picture through the reflex sights then the viewer is able to see a theoretically parallax-free image of the reticle, shown around the target area. Un-magnified reflex sights are particularly a good addition when being used for targets over a short distance when they are used on pistols, submachine guns, and shotguns.
Individuals who use the reflex sights often use both eyes, however this does not hinder the shooters ability to aim at the target and still have a good judgment of where the object target actually is. The brain will let the dominant eye take charge with an unobstructed view of the target object. This enables persons to aim and shoot quickly at target objects versus iron sights and telescopes.
There are three different types of reflex sights, open sights, full tube sights and small tube sights. Open sights which are also called a mini reflex sights needs works with only one reflective surface. Generally it is lighter than full tube sights and don’t come installed with filters and other accessory options. Full tube sights are constructed with a cylindrical tube that has an optic glass which resembles a standard telescope sight. Some even provide you with the option of changing out the filters like the haze reducing filters. Small tube sights on the other hand is also able to adjust the filter and sunshade attachments. Reflex sights are also useful for helping the target on other mechanisms such as telescopes and point-and-shoot digital cameras and are also used in games such as animal hunting and target shooting.
Frequently Asked Questions
RIFLE SCOPE THAT TAKES PHOTO THOUGH SCOPE?
Approx 1yr.-2yrs.ago I seen a scope(onT.V.) that took a picture through the scope.It triggered the photo when fired,and accepted a digital camera card that plugged straight down into the top of the scope.I’ve searched and can’t find,or remember the brand/model?Ossum training aid with markmanship,and oppertunity to see where that missed shot went.Did I hit that deer or not helps with a scope photo!
I know bushnell makes a video scope for 0 on Cabelas.com and I vaguely remember a scope that you described. They don’t get very good reviews though as the electronics quality hasn’t really been perfected for this application yet. The shock of a rifle to the equipment is harsh and from what I gather the resolution isn’t very great either. Probably compares to a cell phone camera, however a few people did like how it performed. Hope this helps!
Does this type of rifle scope exist?
basically a digital camera with cross hairs
electronic zoom and all
a switch for night vision
and a screen that allows you to have your head way off to one side or view the screen from a weird angle without it messing up the alignment of the crosshairs
The Elcan Digital Hunter.
You can even view shots on a laptop while someone else is shooting, and make videos of the shot.
What are the basic necessities for a first-time deer hunter?
I went to Cabela’s recently and did some research by browsing the sections.
I would have to purchase a Remington hunting rifle (probably model 700 with a better quality scope) and correct ammo to pass the hunter ed course to receive a license, but I need to figure out the wear and equipment for wilderness exploring and successful hunting. Please correct the listing with the additional items for a good hunting experience without obstacle and confusion.
Camo jacket and pant (thicker for winter, lighter for spring/summer), shooting gloves, hunting boots with outdoor socks, cap or wool hat, expedition compass watch, binocular/spotting scope, camo backpack (e.g. Camelbak Ranger with hydration), large game bag, rope to drag hunted deer, measuring weight and points, knifes for field dressing, ration & instant warming kits, optional gps device, optional digital camera…
During the winter, is it wise to wear the bright orange vest and/or cap to warn other hunters nearby?
rancy c, LOL. I said “optional” gps, I’ve seen the expensive brands like Garmin eTrex Vista HCX. I don’t mean to list every thing that I intend to buy, just trying to get down to basics. I dunno if a binocular is necessary at all. 1st I pass hunter ed course and practice rifle shooting in hundreds of rounds at outdoors range then I will get hand on it, and I will contact a fellow hunter to join the expedition. It’ll take a few months before I’m ready, so it’s best to prepare with some experience gained before progressing on to big game (if lucky to win in lottery) in a few years if I stick with it.
I read all the answers and while many ideas are good without doubt, if you listen to everything, you will carry too much junk to the woods.
Every hunter has a preferred set of gear. Key to successful hunting is to be comfortable and confident. If you are uncomfortable, you will not focus on hunting. What do I mean by that?
1) Lugging around too much junk will simply get you you tired and sweaty. Try a half a mile uphill hike in pitch darkness and you will know what I mean. Once you settle down, that sweat will make you cold. Evaluate every last piece of gear and carry only what you will use for hunting. Skip the camera and GPS, learn woodsmanship, use reflective thumb tack markers on trees to mark your path in darkenss. Take pictures near the car ! Most hunters don’t venture too far from their cars anyway, especially in their beginnings. Skip the measuring crap too, you will do that near the car. skip the compass and binoculars. A compasss is worthless unless you have a map to go with it or know your terrain inside out. In that case, you will navigate using woodsmanship skills more than anything else. Remember, we rely too much on electronics. GPS means spare batteries on you, adds to the weight. Anything electrical will fail, I can assure you from experience. Reliability is the absolute key in every component you take.
2) Take a reliable gun. Anything bigger than 270 will work. Accuracy is the most important element. I killed my first deer with a shotgun 25 years ago. You will quickly discover that scoped rifles are good for long range but bad for close quarter, thicket hunting or running deer.
3) Nobody mentioned a treestand. To me, it is indispensible, it will increase your chances of success by 400-500%. It keeps your scent off the ground, keeps you out of the sight plain of the deer, and give you a great vantage point. Choose a light model with no moving parts. The Summit Viper is my favorite. Rock solid reliability.
4) Skip the packpack unless you are going overnight. Too heavy and it won’t maneuvre well once you are climbing a tree. Fanny packs are much more compact and will stay on your waist while you climb.
5) Bright orange is desired and is required for most public land hunting. It does not substitute common sense. Know where all the other hunters are. Keep smart, don’t walk in the woods (orange or not) at 7 AM during deer opener day or last day of the season. Hunters usually have the itchiest trigger fingers then. Don’t walk in thickets also, some idiot hunters will hear noise and shoot wihout looking. When selecting your spot, keep your back to the safest direction.
In summary, carry only the essentials, and maintain your gear religiously like an aircraft technician. Your most important tool is your common sense. It will help you avert many dangerous situations which you WILL encounter if you hunt a lot. Start going out to the woods, learn how to navigate using landmarks (streams, fallen logs, hills, etc..) and you will feel good and confident. You will develop your own vision of what your essential hunting tools should be.
I have added the following accessories to my M4?
I’m a little new to this so I hope I didn’t get carried away.
Flashlite with 3 pwr settings (low, high, stobe), red laser, vertical grip with built-in bipod, four rail handguard, small video camera, day/night scope, pistol grip with cleaning gear stored in grip, 9 position collapsable stock with adjustable cheek piece and internal battery storage compartment and a compass in the side, 18mm understock launcher, gps, 20,000v taser with 20′ wires, handheld PS w/ Call to Duty 4, a little black thing that looks really cool that I bought at a gun show but I am not really sure what it does, bayonet, high pitched air horn activated by a switch on the vertical grip, remote for my tv,a small digital clock, a 100 rd double drum magazine and a cup holder, Ipod. 3-pt sling, fake silencer (it looked so cool I couldn’t resist)
Unfortunately I threw my back out the first time I took it to the range as the original 5 lb rifle know weighs 74.8 lbs when fully loaded.
Anyone know where I can find a bipod or something with wheels to help hold the weight when I go shooting again?
Also, thinking of adding a small weather device that will tell me the wind direction and velocity. It goes 13oz with batteries and looks like a good piece of gear. I believe I can mount it on top of the scope with a little epoxy. What do you think? I will have to durcoat it as it is yellow.
I actually haven’t fired it yet. What ammo would be better? 5.56 or .223? What brand, what weight? Can I get explosive bullets?
Is this a good setup for deer and turkeys?
I got it mostly for home defense. I live in a single wide in a trailer park. The trailers are really close together…about 20 feet apart. Will the noise wake up the neighbors? The wall are really thin.
I’m thinking armor piercing bullets might be best in case an intruder is wearing a bullet proof vest and I don’t want to start a fire accidently with tracer rounds.
And what ammo is best for 1000 yd head shots?